Anyone try these? I just got a set of Ultegra tubeless wheels and am thinking about giving these a try.
The ones I saw are not 25 in width as claimed. They were mounted an a rim and were in wider than my fusion 23 tubeless. The shop owner agreed. If you haven't tried tubeless do it.
IRC Roadlight is good as well, but I think is a little more $$. The IRCs are more for true racing, the Hutchies are more for club riding/racing. The IRCs are softer and will wear out a little quicker. Both brands make great tires.
One note: the Hutchinsons Fusion 3 (700x23) will swell after 500+ miles and will actually measure wider than the 700x25 Intense after 500+ miles ! So take this into consideration if your bike has narrow seat stays.
320 grams for $55 to $60 ? Are you kidding me? Why?
Buy some cheap wire bead tires and call it good.
(no, I have not tried them, to answer the question)
Question - will a frame pump work to start inflating those tires on the road and will a floor pump do that at home? Or is this what CO2 and power tools are for?
Depends on the brand. IRCs are a little more supple and will inflate with a floor pump right out of the box. The Hutchinson's are a little stiffer (and tighter) and initially need a CO2 boost, but after they 'break in' they should be good to go with a frame pump. Don't forget to use a tire sealant such as SLIMEPRO Tubeless sealant.
Frozone - it never fails to amaze me how people can chime in before ever trying a product. Tubeless tires ride much more like tubulars (I am assuming you haven't ridden those either?). Tubeless handle better, and ride WAY better. Going back to a tube/clincher setup - the ride is harsh, hard, like rolling on a rock. All of the road shock and vibration is transmitted to the rider with a tube/clincher setup, the tubeless absorb this shock and make for a MUCH better ride. Yes, they are worth it.
The tubeless manufacturers are in a catch-22. They cant drop the price until they get more sales but people wont buy more since the prices are high.
I think KIDWOK has done the right thing since he can go either way with his new wheels (tubeless or clincher). KIDWOK, give them a try, then get a $9 wire beaded clincher with a heavy butyl tube and report back to us if a tubeless is worth it!
320 grams minus 85 grams for the tube we didn't install = 235 grams which is close to a lot of tubular weights. Some rims don't need rim strips either, scratch another 20 to 30 grams.
2nd question: Is a big sidewall cut a ride ender? I carry a bunch of dollar bills and have virtually always been able to make casing patches (using as many as 5 bills) to get home. Is this possible/feasible (or by other means) using sealant? Or are these tires not advisable if riding alone outside of cell phone coverage? Or are we back to the old days of carrying a spare tire just in case?
One of my epic rides, many years ago was riding from Boston out to Fitchburg to watch the 4th of July criterium (John Howard, the Stetina brothers, etc.) and flatting twice. Roadside tubular repair with needle and thread 40 miles from home. I'm getting too old for that.'
There is apparently a 28mm tire coming out from Hutchinson that I am waiting for.
I had the DA 7850 wheels that I ran the Hutchinson Fusion. Very nice wheelset but frankly the ride really was not very different than I got from a set of DA 7700 wheels running Vittoria Pave's.
I ended up selling the tubeless,the extra cost for tubeless was the deciding factor as I like exchanging wheels/tires for my rides.
You can carry a tube and boot for sidewall cuts but normal pinholes are handled by sealant so even less flats. A cut is install a tube end a boot. ride home like clinchers. Same with MTB except you can use non tubeless tires on mtb bikes. Never on a road wheel as the pressure blows regular tires off.
Making a statement like "rolling on a rock" is no different than making a statement about anything someone else has not tried.
And yes, I have used as they were called when I first tried them 45 years ago. Sewups. Also tried one of the first self fixing sewups in the mid 70's with some type of gue crap inside that did nothing but clog the valve and leak all out of the tube and into the outer tire making the tire totally usless after just one flat. Pain in the ass for a tire that cost me, at the time, around 35 bucks.
When you had the tubeless tires did you run them at 80 PSI or more like the 120 you might ride with tubes? On your tubeless wheels you know that you could have run tubes and regular tires too? I ask because I don't know the wheels you mention but I am guessing the only difference was one was tubeless and the other not?
The trouble with tubeless is the availability of lower end tires. If the rims were more common I think we would see a broader selection but regular tires and tubes are still compatible on most tubeless rims. At some point I think you might wish you kept those wheels
Lots of myths floating around about tubeless. You can use tube tires on tubeless rims, you run a tube in a tubeless tire for flat repair on the road. Tubeless tires can be tough to pull on by hand but it can be done. Soapy water and gloves or a rag for grip. I have always been able to mount tubeless tires with a good floor pump. Sometimes it helps to partly unscrew the valve and push it up into the tire so that the beads can settle in, then pull the valve down and screw it back down. Better ride quality because you can ride with lower psi which also rolls faster on rough roads and pinch flats are unlikely.
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